Day 6: Assynt's Ancient Ruin and Coastal Drama
After the wonderful social evening at Clachtoll, I woke up to a very different kind of Highland morning: wet and windy. It was a brisk packing-up job, but the damp start didn't dampen my spirits. Fueled and ready, I pointed Black Betty south, trading the coast for the rugged, mountainous interior of Assynt.
Eerie Elegance: Ardvreck Castle
My first stop of the day took me to one of the most iconic sights on this section of the NC500: the ruins of Ardvreck Castle. Situated on a small headland jutting out into Loch Assynt, the location is incredibly evocative, especially under a brooding sky.
The history here is thick and dark—the castle dates back to the 16th century and is famous for its associations with the Marquis of Montrose, who was imprisoned here before his execution. Today, only a section of the main tower remains, but its silhouette against the loch, with the mountains rising dramatically behind it, is simply spectacular. It's a place that truly makes you pause and appreciate the ancient, often brutal, history of this region.
A Geological Revelation: Knockan Crag
The journey continued, and soon I was pulling in at the incredible Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve. This wasn't just a scenic viewpoint; this is where the very bones of the Highlands tell their story. The reserve is famous for the Moine Thrust, a geological fault that proves the ancient collision of continents. Walking the trails here, you can literally see millions of years of history, with older rock stacked on top of younger rock. The interpretive trails are brilliant, and the views across the vast, rolling Assynt landscape are a stunning backdrop to this mind-bending geological revelation. It was a fascinating and unexpectedly educational stop on the drive.
Ullapool: A Taste of the West Coast
From the dizzying heights of geological history at Knockan Crag, it was a quick hop down the road to the picturesque fishing town of Ullapool. This is one of the larger settlements on the West Coast and makes for the perfect lunch stop.
I pulled up and headed straight for the Seaforth Restaurant, a well-deserved treat after the wet and windy start. I decided to fully embrace the local cuisine, ordering two serious Scottish delicacies: the famous Stornoway black pudding and bacon salad followed by a dish of Balmoral chicken (stuffed with that other Highland favourite, haggis). It was a hearty, delicious meal that fully energized me for the rest of the drive south.
A Plunging Chasm: Corrieshalloch Gorge
With the taste of Stornoway black pudding still lingering, I hit the road again. Just a short, beautiful drive south of Ullapool, I stopped at the dramatic Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve.
This place is truly breathtaking. Stepping onto the Victorian suspension bridge gives you a dizzying view down into the 60-metre deep chasm. The sight and sound of the Falls of Measach plunging to the bottom was stunning—the water was so powerful, carving its way through the rock with incredible force. It's an awesome reminder of the raw, untamed forces that shaped this part of Scotland. It was a perfect, short detour before continuing my journey south.
Sunset Strategy: Arrival at Gairloch
From the plunging gorge, the road transformed into a stunning coastal stretch, winding its way past shimmering lochs and dark moorland. I enjoyed the drive immensely, knowing I was making great progress down the rugged West Coast.
Finally, I arrived at my destination: Gairloch. I quickly checked in at the renowned Sands Caravan and Camping Park. The wind was noticeably picking up as evening approached, so I engaged in some crucial tactical parking. I strategically placed Black Betty between the sand dunes to protect us both from the strengthening gusts.
With the van secure and the beach just steps away, I’m now settled in for the night. Day 6 was a perfect mix of ancient history, mind-bending geology, a serious Scottish feast, and some of the most dramatic scenery the NC500 has to offer.
