Day 3: The Sound of the Wild and Bacon Fuel
Waking up to the sound of migrating geese is certainly a first for me, but I can think of worse ways to be woken. It was cold overnight, but the moment the autumn sun peeked over the horizon, things started to warm up. As is tradition, my morning ritual commenced immediately: a classic bacon sandwich and two strong cups of coffee. While I cooked, the sun quickly went to work warming Black Betty and drying off all the damp bits from the night of rain. With a full belly and the promise of clear skies, it was time to pack up the camp and officially hit the road for the first full day of the NC500.
On the Road: Northward to the Scenic A9
After packing up at Barrow, I steered Black Betty back through Inverness and onto the A9 North. It was here I quickly realised I was entering my favorite part of the journey so far. The road quickly changed. The wide dual carriageways of previous days gave way to more windy single carriageways, which immediately ramped up the excitement. The sheer scale of the landscape was breathtaking as the road began to cross multiple bodies of glistening water, each reflecting the crisp autumn sky. This was the moment the scale and beauty of the Highlands really started to hit home—the perfect introduction to the wilder north.
A Fairytale Stop: Dunrobin Castle
My journey north on the A9 was momentarily halted by a truly unmissable sight: the fairytale turrets of Dunrobin Castle. Resembling a French château more than a traditional Scottish fortress, it stands sentinel on the coast, a stark contrast to the quiet wilderness that had started to surround me.
I couldn't drive past. Stepping out of Black Betty, I spent a good hour wandering the spectacular grounds. The formal French-style gardens are immaculate, dropping down in terraces towards the sea, offering incredible, sweeping views over the Moray Firth. It was a chance to pause, stretch my legs, and immerse myself in a piece of Highland history.
As an added bonus, I was lucky enough to catch the falconry display on the main lawn. Watching the hawks and falcons—true aerial hunters—swoop and dive against the backdrop of the castle was a fascinating glimpse into a timeless, ancient art.
From Château to Cliffs: Lunch in Wick
Leaving the regal splendour of Dunrobin behind, Black Betty continued to power north, taking me to the rougher coastline of Caithness, where the Autumnal colours of reds and golds really caught my eye. My next stop was the edge of Wick, where I pulled up at the site of the Castle of Old Wick.
I took a break inside the van, enjoying a simple lunch with a dramatic backdrop: the solitary, ruined tower of the old castle—known locally as the "Old Man of Wick"—standing defiantly on a rocky promontory. Looking out, the North Sea looked absolutely black and untameable, crashing against the sheer cliffs with raw, elemental power.
Lunch complete, I stretched my legs with a short, brisk walk along the cliffs. The path led me past dramatic sea-stacks, including the impressive Stack O' Brough and Scorries Island. This section of the route offered a welcome reminder that the NC500 is as much about wild, windswept nature as it is about history.
Riverside Retreat: Day Three is Done
With the raw coastal drama of Stack O' Brough still fresh in my mind, it was time to find camp. I decided to pull up for the night at Wick River Campsite. Tucked away along Riverside Drive, it’s a peaceful, sheltered contrast to the wild cliffs I’d just left.
I settled Black Betty onto her pitch and enjoyed the quiet murmur of the river, a welcome sound after the wind and sea-spray of the afternoon. Before tackling dinner, I took a well-earned moment for myself. Right now, the only thing on the itinerary is a cold, hard-earned beer in the quiet comfort of the van, simply soaking in the satisfaction of having officially conquered the NC500’s Eastern section. It was a relaxed evening of recharging the batteries—both the van’s and my own. Day Three delivered exactly what the NC500 is famous for: historical elegance giving way to elemental, untamed Scottish wilderness.
Tonight's cooking efforts were high-class: Chinese-infused pork loin steaks served alongside perfectly fluffy vegetable rice. After dinner was washed away and Black Betty cleaned up, a trip to the shower block called,where I have to admit they were the cleanest campsite showers I've ever seen and with red hot water.
The rest of my evening will be spent planning tomorrow and listening to some music, including Black Betty's theme Tune!! Who knew! Thanks to Denise for introducing me to the classic RamJam hit. Click here if you fancy a listen.