Day 5: Adrenaline and Ancient Caves
Waking up to the spectacular sea view at Melvich Bay was a serene start, but after the epic walk on Dunnet Head, I decided a late start and a hearty cooked breakfast was in order. Fuelled up on sausage, bacon, and eggs, I packed up Black Betty and pointed her due west along the famously beautiful North Coast. Stopping every turn for the next photo opportunity.
Taking Flight: The Golden Eagle Zipline
The planned destination was Smoo Cave in Durness, but just before reaching the village, I spotted an unexpected opportunity for an adrenaline hit that I couldn't pass up: the Golden Eagle Zipline over Ceannabeinne Beach.
I pulled into the car park, and suddenly my relaxed day had a dose of high-altitude excitement. The zipline is perched high on a cliff edge, taking you on a thrilling flight across the stunning white sand of the bay below.
It was an absolute rush! Launching off the cliff and soaring high above the beach felt like flying, with the turquoise ocean rushing beneath me. Better still, I met a fellow solo adventurer, Gav from Redcar, who was also tackling the NC500. We teamed up, took on the zipline together, and helped each other film the exhilarating ride. It was a great reminder that while you start the NC500 alone, you never really travel alone. Enjoy the rest of your travels friend. (Your van was mint).
Into the Earth: Smoo Cave
With the adrenaline from the zipline still buzzing, it was time for a change of pace and a visit to the planned main attraction: Smoo Cave. Situated right off the road, the entrance is truly unforgettable. The mouth of the cave was spectacular, a massive, intimidating cavern carved into the limestone cliff face. Standing inside, you immediately feel dwarfed by the power of nature and the ages, giving me a distinct sense of adventure—it felt like I had stumbled right into a scene from The Goonies! I explored the main chamber, though the waterfall that sometimes crashes down was unfortunately not fully running today. Nevertheless, the sheer scale of the place, and the echoes of history and geology, made it an incredibly impressive stop.
Courage and Cocoa: Balnakeil Craft Village
After the thrilling rush of the zipline and the impressive depths of Smoo Cave, I steered Black Betty a little further west to the quirky Balnakeil Craft Village. This former military camp has been transformed into a unique hub of artists and makers, offering a welcome splash of colour and creativity on the North Coast.
Naturally, my first stop was to pay a visit to one of the most famous establishments on the NC500. I bravely faced the rumours and headed into the haunted house, I have to say one of the scariest things I have ever done. After I treated myself to what is, without a doubt, the world’s best hot chocolate, perfectly paired with a delicious croissant. The combination of sugar and coastal air made for a perfect afternoon pick-me-up.
The Wild West Coast: Durness to Clachtoll
With my nerves sufficiently settled (and my blood sugar perfectly balanced by the world's best hot chocolate), I settled into the driver's seat of Black Betty and headed south, officially beginning the West Coast leg of the NC500.
The drive was instantly fascinating. This part of the route is utterly different from the East and North. The single-track road snakes and climbs through a rugged, almost primal landscape of mountains and lochs. I found myself constantly stopping to take photos—the scenery here is impossibly dramatic, with towering peaks like Quinag and Suilven dominating the horizon. Every turn offered a new vista of ancient rock and shimmering water. The grey clouds giving the landscape a dark and morose feel.
Eventually, I pulled up at Clachtoll Beach Campsite, one of the most celebrated spots on the route. I quickly secured a pitch and now I’m chilling with a cold beer, looking out at the gorgeous sea view. It's the perfect reward for a day that ranged from cliff-top adrenaline to geological wonders and the discovery of unexpected friends.
The site is my favourite so far. The services on site are second to none. Fresh herbs to help yourself to, a communal cooking area including a wood burning stove and lots of seating, where you take your own drink. Hoping to meet some nice fellow travellers there later. But for now I leave you with this little bit of heaven.
The evening was spent in the communal area, which had a wonderful atmosphere. It was a proper, cozy Highland gathering: plenty of flowing drinks, great chatting with fellow travellers about the day's highlights, all set to the soothing sound of logs cracking on the fire. It’s moments like these, sharing the journey with new friends, that truly define the spirit of the NC500.